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Diary of a Horseback Trip Day 5:
After breakfast, we packed up and made our way along the flat trail through the woods. I recalled coming the opposite way from the Tarahumara boarding school at Munérachi several years ago . In the fall it had been hot there and we had made our start that day quickly to avoid the heat of the morning. Now were headed the other way to go into the heat! As we moved, I remembered that a well-known pianist is supposed to have a home nearby on the rim of the canyon. Romayne Wheeler is supposed to be able to make his grand piano "sing like a bird" according to one description. Some day we'll try for a meeting but not this time. Once again the canyon abruptly opened before us. The panorama of Batopilas Canyon, although smaller than the Urique Canyon, brought everyone to a stop on a point. This is the land where Alexander Shepard built a mining empire based upon the silver riches of Batopilas in the late 1800s in the years before the Mexican Revolution. To the right we could see the trail descending past Terreros down to the community of Cerro Colorado - this would be our route going home. To the left and behind us was the descent into Munérachi. Martín's words of .."only an hour" the night before mocked what I saw. Everyone again spent some time assimilating the view before us. For a different perspective, go to the Virtual Reality page.
Once again the trail switchbacked as we lost elevation. Once again the pine forests gave way to lowland scrub. Only when we reached the canyon bottom and the small river did we encounter any large trees and their shade. A number of Tarahumara were on the trail and their colorful clothing were visible from far away. Pausing as we passed, they said nothing. It is entirely possible they spoke no Spanish.
In Cerro Colorado, we stopped at the local store for some lunch and a soda. It was mid-day and hot, nobody moved quickly. On a previous trip we had seen a great photograph of the Valenzuela family on the wall of the store and here they all were. They consented to having a photo taken of the three of them with their family photo in hand. The store operates one of a series of radios that form the backbone of communications for remote communities. We called ahead to confirm our lodging in Batopilas.
We made our way downstream toward Batopilas. Not far below Cerro Colorado, a bridge marks one of the uppermost extents of the aqueduct that originally supplied Batopilas with water. A cement plaque on the side of the bridge is dated January 1890. Sheperd needed water and electricity to run his mines and an aqueduct made both possible. Batopilas was the second place in Mexico to have electricity after Mexico City itself. The hydropower station ran until three years ago when outside electricity finally became available. As we made our way downstream, portions of the aqueduct still ran vigorously. Above Batopilas, we began to encounter various ruins of buildings from the time when mining was at its peak. Sheperd died in 1902 from appendicitis and left the operation to his sons. He is buried in Washington, D.C. The Mexican Revolution effectively ended silver production at Batopilas. Operations halted near 1920 and were never successfully resumed. One son, Grant Sheperd, wrote a fascinating account of life in Batopilas in the 1938 book titled "The Silver Magnet". I'm still looking for a copy.
At a specific place along the river, we detoured into a grove of trees and tied our mounts to rest in the shade. Dusty, sweaty clothes came off, shorts went on, and we hot-footed it (literally) across the sand to the river's edge and into the water. As I sank beneath the surface, I felt the plume of trip grime come off me and drift downstream. This was heaven. A cultural note here, skinny-dipping is strongly frowned upon in Mexico. It can, and will, cause trouble with the law. Enough said.. Now if only there were a cold beer available. Any kind would do... As the town of Batopilas began appearing on our right, the ruins of Sheperd's operation appeared on our left. Set alongside the river, the buildings exuded a grand and wealthy past. Numerous large strangler fig trees line the outside of the walls where guest rooms had individual fireplaces, pool was played, good liquor flowed, and the arched openings from the stable area to the outside were lined with cut stone. Purchased in 1966 by Manuel Alcaras (owner of the Hotel Mary), the remains today are privately owned and can be visited for a ten-peso fee. Unfortunately little is being done to preserve and enhance their history.
Continuing through town, we sought a place to corral our mounts for a couple of nights. They were tired and could use a day's rest - us too! As soon as their loads were off, every horse and mule promptly lay down in the sand and vigorously kicked about upside down. I wanted too as well.
Carrying our dusty saddlebags we headed to the "Real de Minas" hotel where the
prospect of a shower made everyone a bit giddy. The mango tree in the courtyard
was heavy with fruit but it was too early to eat one yet. Feeling presentable
afterward (sort of), we set off for a round of cold beers. Although Batopilas is
technically dry (no package sales are allowed), a few places offer Tecate and we
were ready! Settling down around a table, little else mattered. Tomorrow
everyone will be on their own but already plans are being discussed. Later, over
dinner, a consensus emerges to visit Satevó. Located downstream from Batopilas,
it is best known for its early Jesuit cathedral, sometimes mistakenly called the
"Lost Cathedral". Since the location is no secret, perhaps it is the lack of
records that suggests it was "lost". Built sometime in the 1760s as
one of a series of missions, it is a
monument to ingenuity and hard work. We'll need to arrange for a ride there..,
perhaps we can get a guide as well.., what time shall we go?.., let's eat at
Doña Mica's for breakfast but when?.., what about Sheperd's ruins?.., details,
details. Let's deal with it in true Mexican fashion - mañana! |
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