
Diary of a Horseback
Trip
Day 7:
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Along Sheperd's
Aqueduct above Batopilas |
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A communal ride into
town |
It was time to leave
Batopilas and nobody had forgotten the intensity of the daytime heat. Knowing we would be
in the canyon bottom for at least two hours, we were up before sunrise and off
to gather our mounts. Equipment was gathered and saddles cinched up by
flashlight - we all felt the urgency to get moving. If someone is lagging
behind, they get to catch up. As daylight slowly emerged, we clattered our way
up the riverbed and over the last remaining piece of the original cobblestone
road into Batopilas. We moved steadily, savoring the morning coolness. At Cerro
Colorado, a stake-bed truck was filled with passengers headed to town. This
impromptu taxi meant many people did not have to walk. Soon we were past
Cerro Colorado and beginning the climb toward the high country. A muleshoe began
to ring signaling the need to stop for a quick repair. It's inevitable, the
rocky trails are tough on the shoes and they quickly wear down. Later that
morning, we stopped for snacks. Nichole had thoughtfully brought some mango - it
was quickly devoured!
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Once out of the
canyon bottom, we shared a fresh mango |
Our route took us up the
trail normally used for the Ranch's "Silver Trail" ride. This trail dated from
the time pack animals carried silver ore, and later, silver ingots from
Batopilas. A hundred-plus years later, we follow their path. Today the trail is also
a part of a periodic footrace that is sponsored and promoted by "Caballo
Blanco" (White Horse - a.k.a. Micah True). A part-time resident of Batopilas,
Micah has engaged local Tarahumara runners to show what they can do. The
Tarahumara are legendary runners and the offer of companionship, food, and cash
prizes bring out a few of the best area runners. The winner has repeatedly made
it from Batopilas to Cerro Colorado, over the top to Los Alisos, and down to
Urique in five hours! We will take a day and a half. The route is approximately
28 miles long and covers more than a mile in elevation change in each direction!
This is not a race for the timid or the faint of heart.
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Eddy and Manzana
(with a loose shoe) |
Once on top, we take a long
break for snacks and to take in the expansiveness before us. To our left lay the
end of the mesa we had ridden two days before. Batopilas Canyon openes below us. Batopilas lay downstream and Satevó
beyond - both out of sight. Tall trees surround us everywhere. The feeling in
places is like that of being in a virgin forest. I feel very small and insignificant.
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The Rim above the
Urique Canyon |
On our way again we passed
by Yesca where our trail from three days before had crossed. Keeping a straight
heading we progressed toward the edge of the Urique Canyon. Soon a familiar area
popped into view and we took another break. Our location on the rim overlooked
the Urique Canyon and the surrounding areas - time for another break! A short
walk on foot took us to a series of rock outcroppings. Below us, practically
between our feet, segments of the Urique river were visible. Again we took the
time to let it all soak in. Below us, the trail passes by the ranchito at
Pandito. Below it was the turnoff where we went south to the fabulous canyon
overlook and Mesa de los Isidros. Eveline kept making references to lechugilla -
I'm beginning to think the Swiss are deprived when it comes to moonshine (or
mescal)! I guess she will just have to come back for more.
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Eveline and her
Blanket |
The descent from our
overlook is steep and rocky. Loose material compounds the effort. Switchback
after switchback, constantly descending before us, the trail seemed like a
constant snapshot of itself. I thought about the footrace when it was run from
Urique to Batopilas - no wonder everyone walked this uphill stretch! Gradually the
sides of the canyon began to rise around us. We passed the ruins of a house some
distance off the trail. It would pass unnoticed except for the spot of color
provided by the bougainvillea that somehow still clung to life. Pandito, a small
ranchito on the side of the trail, quickly came and went. Now the trail
straightened out and became a fairly straight shot downward toward Los Alisos.
In a while, familiar tall trees came into view along with the welcoming sight of
the grapefruit orchard and the adobe buildings.
Eveline's black wool rug was
waiting for her as had been promised. Now that most of the grain and alfalfa
pellets had been used, there was room on the cargo mule for it. We looked
forward to a relaxing evening and the ability to sleep in tomorrow.

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