Diary Day 7
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Diary of a Horseback Trip

Day 7:
 

Along Sheperd's Aqueduct above Batopilas

A communal ride into town

It was time to leave Batopilas and nobody had forgotten the intensity of the daytime heat. Knowing we would be in the canyon bottom for at least two hours, we were up before sunrise and off to gather our mounts. Equipment was gathered and saddles cinched up by flashlight - we all felt the urgency to get moving. If someone is lagging behind, they get to catch up. As daylight slowly emerged, we clattered our way up the riverbed and over the last remaining piece of the original cobblestone road into Batopilas. We moved steadily, savoring the morning coolness. At Cerro Colorado, a stake-bed truck was filled with passengers headed to town. This impromptu taxi meant many people did not have to walk. Soon we were past Cerro Colorado and beginning the climb toward the high country. A muleshoe began to ring signaling the need to stop for a quick repair. It's inevitable, the rocky trails are tough on the shoes and they quickly wear down. Later that morning, we stopped for snacks. Nichole had thoughtfully brought some mango - it was quickly devoured!

Once out of the canyon bottom, we shared a fresh mango

Our route took us up the trail normally used for the Ranch's "Silver Trail" ride. This trail dated from the time pack animals carried silver ore, and later, silver ingots from Batopilas. A hundred-plus years later, we follow their path. Today the trail is also a part of a periodic footrace that is sponsored and promoted by "Caballo Blanco" (White Horse - a.k.a. Micah True). A part-time resident of Batopilas, Micah has engaged local Tarahumara runners to show what they can do. The Tarahumara are legendary runners and the offer of companionship, food, and cash prizes bring out a few of the best area runners. The winner has repeatedly made it from Batopilas to Cerro Colorado, over the top to Los Alisos, and down to Urique in five hours! We will take a day and a half. The route is approximately 28 miles long and covers more than a mile in elevation change in each direction! This is not a race for the timid or the faint of heart.

Eddy and Manzana (with a loose shoe)

Once on top, we take a long break for snacks and to take in the expansiveness before us. To our left lay the end of the mesa we had ridden two days before. Batopilas Canyon openes below us. Batopilas lay downstream and Satevó beyond - both out of sight. Tall trees surround us everywhere. The feeling in places is like that of being in a virgin forest. I feel very small and insignificant.

The Rim above the Urique Canyon

On our way again we passed by Yesca where our trail from three days before had crossed. Keeping a straight heading we progressed toward the edge of the Urique Canyon. Soon a familiar area popped into view and we took another break. Our location on the rim overlooked the Urique Canyon and the surrounding areas - time for another break! A short walk on foot took us to a series of rock outcroppings. Below us, practically between our feet, segments of the Urique river were visible. Again we took the time to let it all soak in. Below us, the trail passes by the ranchito at Pandito. Below it was the turnoff where we went south to the fabulous canyon overlook and Mesa de los Isidros. Eveline kept making references to lechugilla - I'm beginning to think the Swiss are deprived when it comes to moonshine (or mescal)! I guess she will just have to come back for more.

Eveline and her Blanket

The descent from our overlook is steep and rocky. Loose material compounds the effort. Switchback after switchback, constantly descending before us, the trail seemed like a constant snapshot of itself. I thought about the footrace when it was run from Urique to Batopilas - no wonder everyone walked this uphill stretch! Gradually the sides of the canyon began to rise around us. We passed the ruins of a house some distance off the trail. It would pass unnoticed except for the spot of color provided by the bougainvillea that somehow still clung to life. Pandito, a small ranchito on the side of the trail, quickly came and went. Now the trail straightened out and became a fairly straight shot downward toward Los Alisos. In a while, familiar tall trees came into view along with the welcoming sight of the grapefruit orchard and the adobe buildings.

Eveline's black wool rug was waiting for her as had been promised. Now that most of the grain and alfalfa pellets had been used, there was room on the cargo mule for it. We looked forward to a relaxing evening and the ability to sleep in tomorrow.

 

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Updated 06/01/2008