Easter  Photos
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In a country that is overwhelmingly Roman Catholic, Easter is observed devoutly. This is true even among the Tarahumara in spite of their solitary lives in remote areas of the Canyon. Missionary work has left them with a mixture of traditional native beliefs and Catholicism. The result is sometimes difficult to explain. Prior to Easter Sunday, the natives travel from their isolated ranchitos to Guadalupe-Coronado where the church is located. Along the way, they announce their journey with loud drumming. If you are traveling to Guadalupe-Coronado by horseback at the same time, you may hear their drums from miles away. The message is clear - something important is about to happen!

Easter is a time to be cautious - there's trickery afoot! The devil is out and about, intending to invade the church. Like coyote in Native American lore, he's a trickster and not to be trusted. The church must be guarded in this holiest of times. 

Some of the Tarahumara dress up and paint themselves as devils. Always moving, they rally their fellow devils, conspire, and attack the church. Accompanied by loud drumming, they symbolically assault the entrance to the church and are repeatedly repulsed only to try again. They are in constant motion, pausing to regroup, and for a sip or two (or three) of tesueño. This will last all night long. It is the classic confrontation between good and evil.

This is a genuine religious ceremony and the presence of a few anglos has no effect on its enactment. Be respectful of other's beliefs and your presence will be accepted. This ceremony has been conducted over many generations and we are privileged to be in its presence. Every year things unfold differently although the fundamental theme remains unchanged.

In 1995, riders from the Oso set out to deliver a gift to the church. A statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe had been commissioned and was completed. Wrapped inside a bedroll, the statue survived the two-day horseback journey after which it was delivered to church officials. That night, a Catholic priest who had been brought in to conduct the Easter services blessed the statue thereby making it a permanent fixture within the church. It was a moving and humbling experience for all of us.

Today we still visit the community to see this timeless re-enactment of the events that comprise Easter as interpreted by the Tarahumara native people. Each year is a little different. The pictures that follow are from two different years yet you will see many similarities. A short video clip is also available.

The Easter celebration getting started Not much happens in the daytime. As the afternoon wears on, small groups begin to parade around the area demonstrating their devotion to the church. Note the drum being carried toward the right. Although only about two inches thick, it produces a very loud "boom" which can be heard great distances - even miles in open country. A single snare across the bottom may be used. Within the Guadalupe community, it can be almost deafening. This is not the time to be seeking solitude & quiet! The green jug being carried on one man's shoulders if full of tesueño - a locally-fermented drink to keep the celebration fired up! At the same time, if one of the participants gets too fired up, he may be abruptly & forcibly removed from the ceremony by his peers.
Tarahumara "devils" with Judas Judas is carried about the grounds surrounding the church - notice he is accompanied only by his black-and-white striped devils. Judas portrays the dark side of life and may constantly be close to, but never inside, the church.
The church under assault Repeated attempts are made to break into the church but are always repulsed by guards at the entrance.
Church statues on parade The pace picks up as the saints are paraded around the church and the plaza. Everyone participates as the afternoon wears on. Soon the saints will be returned to the church and sentries will take up their positions as guards by the entrance. Most events take place in the evening or later so it is best to abandon thoughts of capturing the ceremonies on film. Camera flash is rude so set your camera aside and just be there. Note the devil assisting with the procession - go figure!
A lone violin player with a handmade violin Music comes from wherever and however it can be created. This violin has been carved entirely by hand. Drums tend to prevail although a New Year's style of ratchet noisemaker has been seen - one was approximately three feet long and vigorously cranked by one man who had climbed onto the top of the church. Guitars and violins prevail.
Although threatening, no harm comes to either side Devils, painted in black stripes as to be unmistakable, act out their assault on the church. Running, tumbling, always moving, they constantly try to gain entry into the church and are symbolically repulsed. Note the church sentry in the doorway holding a lance. Clashes are symbolic only and nobody is intentionally hurt as the drama is played out. Also note the "weapon" carried by the devil on the left. These people see many things in spite of their isolated existence! 
Judas - the epitome of evil The emergence of Judas, here made of straw, embodies purest evil and the betrayal of Jesus. Judas is paraded around by the devils as they continue their assault on the church. At this point, everything outside is evil and the church interior is the only sanctuary. Later a symbolic wrestling match takes place pitting good against evil. Fortunately the forces of good prevail and Judas is then destroyed and burned. The devils undergo symbolic punishment and are then allowed to return to society. Although nobody seems to know exactly what will happen when, there is a loose overall plan. Like many things, it happens in its own time. Here, if you wish, you can truly "shake hands with the devil"! He may, or may not, speak Spanish.
Tarahumara wood carvings of evil as they see it Possessing no armaments themselves, the Tarahumara are a peaceful people today. These carvings came from past Easter ceremonies and represent the tools of the evil ones. They are disposed of after the ceremonies are over.
More devils on parade There is no set time for any part of the story - only that it culminates with the triumph of good over evil and the Resurrection by morning.
Tarahumara devils with their weapons Unfortunately, parts of the Copper Canyon are the domain of drug traffickers and they are sometimes in conflict with people living in the more remote parts of the canyons - people who are overwhelmed. The devils in the celebration consistently carry carved models of automatic weapons representing the evil they see and experience in their real life.
Judas is accompanied to his ultimate destruction Judas is again carried away from the church. Late in the ceremony, there is a symbolic wrestling match between the forces of good and the forces of evil. Fortunately, the forces of good prevail after which Judas is physically destroyed or dismembered. It is the time of the Resurrection. Following the completion of the ceremony, the devils undergo a ritualistic cleansing after which they are welcomed back into their society.
Fond farewells as we leave our statue of the Virgin behind The culmination of this trip was the gift of a statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe to the church at Guadalupe-Coronado. During Easter services the night before, the statue was blessed by the visiting priest thereby becoming a permanent fixture within the church. With the permission of one of the church officials, here seen holding the statue, it was brought outside, we said our goodbyes, and began our long trip out. Nobody slept much the previous night. The "flowers" seen in the entryway are actually individual yucca fronds woven to resemble a large flower. The white "petals" are the interiors of the frond where it is normally attached to the growing trunk of the plant. In the harsh climate of the Canyon interior, no such flower could grow. Similar decorations are seen throughout the neighboring towns, including Cerocahui.
   

 

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Updated 06/01/2008