
In a country that is
overwhelmingly Roman Catholic, Easter is observed devoutly. This is true even
among the Tarahumara in spite of their solitary lives in remote areas of the
Canyon. Missionary work has left them with a mixture of traditional native
beliefs and Catholicism. The result is sometimes difficult to explain. Prior to
Easter Sunday, the natives travel from their isolated ranchitos to
Guadalupe-Coronado where the church is located. Along the way, they announce
their journey with loud drumming. If you are traveling to Guadalupe-Coronado by
horseback at the same time, you may hear their drums from miles away. The
message is clear - something important is about to happen!
Easter is a time to be
cautious - there's trickery afoot! The devil is out and about, intending to invade the
church. Like coyote in Native American lore, he's a trickster and not to be
trusted. The church must be guarded in this holiest of times.
Some of the Tarahumara dress
up and paint themselves as devils. Always moving, they rally their fellow devils, conspire, and
attack the church. Accompanied by loud drumming, they symbolically assault the
entrance to the church and are repeatedly repulsed only to try again. They are
in constant motion, pausing to regroup, and for a sip or two (or three) of tesueño. This
will last all night long. It is the classic confrontation between good and evil.
This is a genuine religious ceremony and the presence of a few anglos has no effect on its
enactment. Be respectful of other's beliefs and your presence will be accepted.
This ceremony has been conducted over many generations and we are privileged to
be in its presence. Every year things unfold differently although the
fundamental theme remains unchanged.
In 1995, riders from
the Oso set out to deliver a gift to the church. A statue of the Virgin of
Guadalupe had been commissioned and was completed. Wrapped inside a bedroll,
the statue survived the two-day horseback journey after which it was delivered to church
officials. That night, a Catholic priest who had been brought in to conduct the Easter
services blessed the statue thereby making it a permanent fixture within the
church. It was a moving and humbling experience for all of us.
Today we still visit the
community to see this timeless re-enactment of the events that comprise Easter
as interpreted by the Tarahumara native people. Each year is a little different.
The pictures that follow are from two different years yet you will see many
similarities. A short video clip is also
available.
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Not
much happens in the daytime. As the afternoon wears on, small groups begin to
parade around the area demonstrating their devotion to the church. Note the drum
being carried toward the right. Although only about two inches thick, it
produces a very loud "boom" which can be heard great distances - even
miles in open country. A single snare across the bottom may be used. Within
the Guadalupe community, it can be almost deafening. This is not the time to be
seeking solitude & quiet! The green jug being carried on one man's shoulders
if full of tesueño - a locally-fermented drink to keep the celebration fired
up! At the same time, if one of the participants gets too fired up, he may be
abruptly & forcibly removed from the ceremony by his peers. |
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Judas is carried about
the grounds surrounding the church - notice he is accompanied only by his
black-and-white striped devils. Judas portrays the dark side of life and
may constantly be close to, but never inside, the church. |
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Repeated attempts are
made to break into the church but are always repulsed by guards at the
entrance. |
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The
pace picks up as the saints are paraded around the church and the plaza.
Everyone participates as the afternoon wears on. Soon the saints will be
returned to the church and sentries will take up their positions as guards by
the entrance. Most events take place in the evening or later so it is best to
abandon thoughts of capturing the ceremonies on film. Camera flash is rude so set your camera aside and
just be there. Note the devil assisting with the procession - go figure! |
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Music
comes from wherever and however it
can be created. This violin has been carved entirely by hand. Drums tend to
prevail although a New Year's style of ratchet noisemaker has been seen - one
was approximately three feet long and vigorously cranked by one man who had
climbed onto the top of the church. Guitars and violins prevail. |
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Devils,
painted
in black stripes as to be unmistakable, act out their assault on the church.
Running, tumbling, always moving, they constantly try to gain entry into the
church and are symbolically repulsed. Note the church sentry in the doorway
holding a lance. Clashes are symbolic only and nobody is intentionally hurt as
the drama is played out. Also note the "weapon" carried by the devil
on the left. These people see many things
in spite of their isolated
existence!
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The emergence of
Judas, here made of straw, embodies purest evil and the betrayal of Jesus.
Judas is paraded around by the devils as they continue their assault on
the church. At this point, everything outside is evil and the church
interior is the only sanctuary. Later a symbolic wrestling match takes
place pitting good against evil. Fortunately the forces of good prevail
and Judas is then destroyed and burned. The devils undergo symbolic
punishment and are then allowed to return to society. Although nobody
seems to know exactly what will happen when, there is a loose overall
plan. Like many things, it happens in its own time. Here, if you wish, you
can truly "shake hands with the devil"! He may, or may not, speak Spanish. |
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Possessing
no armaments themselves, the Tarahumara are a peaceful people today. These
carvings came from past Easter ceremonies and represent the tools of the evil ones.
They are disposed of after the ceremonies are over. |
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There is no set time
for any part of the story - only that it culminates with the triumph of
good over evil and the Resurrection by morning. |
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Unfortunately, parts
of the Copper Canyon are the domain of drug traffickers and they are
sometimes in conflict with people living in the more remote parts of the
canyons - people who are overwhelmed. The devils in the celebration
consistently carry carved models of automatic weapons representing the
evil they see and experience in their real life. |
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Judas is again carried
away from the church. Late in the ceremony, there is a symbolic wrestling
match between the forces of good and the forces of evil. Fortunately, the
forces of good prevail after which Judas is physically destroyed or
dismembered. It is the time of the Resurrection. Following the completion
of the ceremony, the devils undergo a ritualistic cleansing after which
they are welcomed back into their society. |
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The
culmination of this trip was the gift of a statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe to
the church at Guadalupe-Coronado. During Easter services the night before, the
statue was blessed by the visiting priest thereby becoming a permanent fixture
within the church. With the permission of one of the church officials, here seen
holding the statue, it was brought outside, we said our goodbyes, and began our
long trip out. Nobody slept much the previous night. The "flowers" seen in the entryway are actually individual
yucca fronds woven to resemble a large flower. The white "petals" are
the interiors of the frond where it is normally attached to the growing trunk of
the plant. In the harsh climate of the Canyon interior, no such flower could
grow. Similar decorations are seen throughout the neighboring towns, including
Cerocahui. |
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