Air, Train, & Bus Travel

The Rancho del Oso is 250 miles west of Chihuahua, Mexico, which, in turn, is 250 miles south of El Paso, Texas. Access to the Ranch is by the famed Copper Canyon railroad (Chihuahua-Pacifico or "Chepe") leaving from departure points of either Los Mochis and El Fuerte on the west coast or Chihuahua, Cuauhtemoc, and Creel to the East. After arriving at the Bahuichivo Station, clients are transferred by vehicle 8 miles to the Ranch.

 Los Mochis is served by flights from Tucson or Los Angeles; Chihuahua is served from Tucson, Phoenix, El Paso, Dallas, and Houston. Flight schedules and access change rapidly so we suggest you consult your travel agent for latest information. El Fuerte, Cuauhtemoc, and Creel are accessible by bus or car.  In planning your trip, the southbound train from Chihuahua or Cuauhtemoc has the most reliable access to the ranch. However, the more spectacular portion of the train ride is from Los Mochis or El Fuerte. It is an experience in itself! The construction of the railroad is still a marvel of engineering accomplished through seemingly impassable terrain. Starting at sea level in Los Mochis, the route climbs over eight thousand feet to its highest point.

The entire route traverses 37 bridges and 86 tunnels. The longest bridge exceeds 1600 feet and the longest tunnel exceeds a mile in length. Read more about its history in the following article. Our rail log also lists the sights along the way. To the right are the Temoris switchbacks where the rails are visible on three different elevations as the rails switchback through a quick change in elevation. Rail disruptions due to weather, although rare, can affect the train between Los Mochis and Bahuichivo.

Two levels of rail service exist.

First-class service (dark green cars) is normally used by tourists and tour groups. Cars are air conditioned and a dining car is now available. This service has priority over other traffic on the rail line. The railroad is no longer owned by the Mexican Government and as a result, prices have risen in the last two years and are still in flux. Check the table below for recent fares. There is also a second-class train covering the same route and fares are approximately one-half the first-class fare. Travel times are slightly longer and schedules are occasionally erratic during times of bad weather but the experience is more colorful. There is little difference in the cars - in fact, the second-class cars used to be the first-class cars and the air conditioning works! We regularly meet the first-class train in Bahuichivo but not the second-class train unless we know in advance of a planned arrival. Either way, spend some time in the vestibules where you can look directly out onto the passing landscape. If you are traveling from the west coast, the preferred viewing seats are on the right side of the car as you face the direction of travel. The departure from Los Mochis northbound is very early - consider spending the night in El Fuerte instead. You can sleep in later and will not miss any sights along the way. Likewise the southbound departure from Chihuahua is also quite early. We recommend staying in Cuauhtemoc instead. The only canyon overlook is at Divisadero where the train stops for 10 - 15 minutes. This stop lies between Bahuichivo and Creel. You can check the schedule and fares on-line for both the first-class and second-class trains through the railroad's website - look under "services" from their home page.
 

It is possible (in fact common) to board the train without reservations and buy your ticket from the conductor. But we do not recommend this for people traveling to make connections or during busy times of the year. You can pay for train tickets on board using US dollars if need be. However, plan on a less-favorable exchange rate, typically up to 10% less, compared to a bank or "Casa de Cambio" (money-exchange) business. Mexican currency rates fluctuate and are presently about $11.00 Pesos per US Dollar (November, 2006). You can check the latest official exchange rates on-line. Expect to receive slightly less at larger stores. Credit cards are not useable outside of larger Mexican cities. Telephone communication in rural areas is difficult at best and usually non-existent. In the larger towns & cities, pre-paid phone cards are readily available in stores and are a good bet for local and international calls from pay phones. The phones are up-to-date, automated, and easy to use.

Bus service from El Paso to Chihuahua is less expensive than air (roughly $25 USD versus $150USD one way) and provides a less abrupt entry into Mexico - we prefer it. Large, air-conditioned Volvo & Mercedes-Benz buses make the trip very comfortable. The ranch is also accessible by driving, but the last 35 miles are mountain dirt roads and require a high clearance vehicle such as a pickup or SUV. Rainy weather can create significant driving difficulties. Contact us for updated road conditions should you plan on driving. It is possible to leave your car in El Paso and take a bus (~$5 USD but time-consuming) or taxi (~$50 USD and much faster) across the border to the Juarez terminal to make bus connections. Most bus tickets will require pesos.

As of 4/2006, the following fares (one-way) were in effect:

Driving

Driving into both Mexico and the Paraiso del Oso is an option for adventurous drivers but this is more costly than commercial surface transportation for one or two people. Also, driving in Mexico is much more challenging than in most places in the U.S. If you are thinking of driving in, give us a call. The following information and road logs are provided for those who do want to drive in. For good on-line map information of Chihuahua and elsewhere in Mexico, check this site.

Temporary Vehicle Importation Permit: This permit, good for six months, is required beyond the border area and may be obtained at  interior checkpoints generally 30 kilometers from the border depending on location. To obtain this permit you will need an original copy of your registration and title if the vehicle is paid for. If it is being financed you will need a letter from your bank giving permission for you to take the vehicle into Mexico! You will also need a major credit card, your driver's license, and Mexican Insurance. The insurance may be obtained from vendors at the checkpoint but this is risky since many U.S. policies do not cover you in the border area of Mexico. We suggest you purchase Mexican coverage before leaving the U.S., most offices of AAA can handle this as can a number of private companies in border towns. Warnings: if you are involved in an accident and have no Mexican insurance, you could be held by the police with no one to defend you! Also, tracking of your Importation Permit is now computerized. You must surrender your permit before its expiration date at an interior checkpoint when departing Mexico. Multiple departures & re-entries within the period of the permit are allowable. The import sticker placed on your windshield must be removed by an official.

You can drive into Mexico through El Paso and Ciudad Juarez. Both cities are crowded & congested. Delays are common - particularly in returning to the United States. Don't be in a rush.

Gasoline: Mexican stations along the border have adjusted prices to order to remain in line with U.S prices, but this policy can abruptly change. After you leave the border area, prices may change. For instance, in April, 2006 when U.S. gasoline in El Paso cost approximately $3USD/gallon, Juarez gasoline cost $7.93MN/liter while gas further south in Bocoyna cost $6.71MN/liter. Premium gas is approximately 18% higher in price. Unless you drive a vehicle with a finicky engine, regular gas should work out fine. It is a good practice to keep your tank topped off as gas can occasionally be hard to find outside of larger towns. From Juarez to Chihuahua, there are no service stations south of Villa Ahumada so fill up.

The road south from Juarez is in good condition and is divided. In the past, drivers drove at almost any conceivable speed. Now there are radar police on the road and speed limits are enforced. 90 kilometers per hour may seem slow but it sure beats a speeding ticket and the resulting hassle involved with resolving the ticket and fine. We have seen radar police regularly near kilometer 277. In addition, several toll roads exist. Two will be encountered between Juarez and Chihuahua ($109MN & $41MN) and one between Chihuahua and Cuauhtemoc ($65MN). Tolls noticeably add to the cost of driving but allow access to faster and better roads. 

Road Log from Creel to Hotel Paraiso del Oso 

The road from Creel to the Paraiso del Oso is not suitable for conventional passenger cars. A pickup or high-clearance vehicle is needed. Two routes exist - the "Low Road" and the "High Road". The low road is more scenic but is prone to being washed out during the rainy season. The high road is less scenic but more reliable. During rainy seasons the upper road between San Rafael and Bahuichivo may be exceedingly muddy and impassable; river crossings on the lower road may also be impassable, especially in late afternoons and evenings when thunderstorms are most likely. However bridge construction on the lower road has eliminated most of the stream crossings. Most traffic is now using the lower road but the choice changes frequently and is seasonal. The gasoline station in Creel carries both unleaded and regular gasoline. At San Rafael gasoline is sold from 55-gallon drums and may be contaminated and dirty. The gasoline station in Bahuichivo has regular and usually also has unleaded. Allow 5 hours for the trip from Creel to the hotel plus sightseeing time and three hours from the Divisadero or Posada Barrancas area. The road is paved from Creel to San Rafael and the present governor has promised to continue the pavement to Cerocahui -- but he did not say when! Our road log gives details on each route. Cerocahui also has gas.

Road Log from Batopilas to Cerocahui

For the adventurous, we've posted a preliminary road log describing the back route - plan on using a high-clearance 4-wheel-drive vehicle. Anyone completing the trip - please send us any corrections or additions to the route!