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Traveling
by train from Chihuahua, the first contact with the Tarahumara will most likely
be in Creel. Known for lumber products, Creel is a popular starting place for
those traveling to the canyons. These Tarahumara girls were selling baskets next
to the train. They prefer not to look directly at a camera. Baskets and small weavings are the most common items offered
for sale. |
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Paula and Xavier live
in Valenti & Jesusita's house now. We stopped in shortly after she had her
first child. We frequently visit with Paula & Xavier when we travel the
road to Urique. She often can be seen at the small enclosed roadside
"cave" where her basketry is for sale. Her husband farms and seeks work
however he can locally |
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One of Paula's
baskets. The basket and its top took her over two days to complete. |
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Travelers coming to
Copper Canyon by train get to see the canyon only at Divisadero where the
train stops for ten to fifteen minutes. Here in addition to a hurried look
over the canyon's rim, there are numerous basket weavers displaying their
wares |
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Driving to Urique one
day, we picked up this hitchhiker. He carried with him this piece of "ocote"
- a kind of resinous wood. Shavings from this are used to facilitate
fire-starting. He hoped to sell the wood in town and make a few pesos.
Without a ride, he would have walked for miles to town and back. |
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"Ssst - ssst"
- I could
barely hear it.
At an Indian boarding school in the back country, some girls shyly
whispered behind me wondering if this "gringo" understood Spanish or the
gesture.
"Que quieren?" I replied - "What do you want?"
"Un foto" came the almost inaudible reply.
Normally shy & disliking
cameras, all they wanted was their picture taken and expected nothing in
return. |
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Every day at the
Munerachi boarding school, wood has to be gathered and chopped for heating
and cooking. Here a couple of boys work at their part of the effort. |
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Old friends, Jesusita
& Valenti were always glad to see us when we drop in. Both of them are
now gone and sorely missed. |
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Valenti loved to spend
as much time as you had to chat about everything. Even if you didn't
understand him, the expression on his face said it all for him. |
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Not much is formally known about Jesusita. There were claims she was more than one hundred years old but this is
probably exaggerated. It is known she was married in Cerocahui in 1920. Her daughter
Lupita is still in the area. Sadly, Jesusita passed away in October, 1996.
Valente survived for two and a half more years. They are sorely missed! To
the end, he worked the fields next to their home. |
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Along the Batopilas
River, we passed a couple of boys in traditional dress. The wrap-around
"skirt" is called a sapeta. The loose blouses are invariably some bright
color. |
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This woman arrived
unexpectedly one day having walked several kilometers from Cerocahui to
the ranch. She carried a couple kilos of "pinole" she had prepared - a dry
meal made from dried & roasted corn. When mixed with water or milk and
drunk, it is very tasty and fortifying. Travelers and runners almost
always have some with them for sustenance. After trying a sample, we
bought all she had. |
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Riding a few hours
from the ranch, we passed what appeared to be an occupied, but now empty,
home. After introductions, we were invited inside. This home is unusually
modern and roomy. Cooking is done in the traditional way over a wood fire.
Water is heated while beans and tortillas cook on the small surface. |
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In Batopilas, we ran
across an excellent example of a woven basket and a carved, wooden
rattlesnake. |
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