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If you are driving into our area,
consider expanding your trip to include some additional scenery. The
archeological site at Paquime, on the south side of Nuevo Casas Grandes, is well
worth a visit. Just south of there lies the famed pottery village of Mata Ortiz
and Hacienda San Diego, home of one of Chihuahua's wealthiest men in the days of
the Mexican Revolution. Further south, Cuauhtemoc is a
gateway into the Mennonite communities of Northern Chihuahua and their museum
just north of town is worth a visit. Guerrero offers a
convenient location to spend the night before heading west to Basaseachi
National Park and the Basaseachi waterfall. From there, you can easily return to
San Juanito, Creel, and points south.
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Basaseachi Waterfall
as seen from a neighboring overlook approximately 1/2 mile away. This is
the dry season and the water is but a trickle. The falls are 246 meters
high and you can walk to the edge of the drop. Basaseachi is a park and
sometimes there is a ten peso charge to enter. Another, significantly
higher, falls exists to the west but we haven't visited it yet. If you are
driving south toward Creel, spend the night in Guerrero, visit Basaseachi
the next day, and continue on to Creel. |
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The "Tarahumara
Mansion" hotel is run by the energetic Maria Villarreal and we recommend
it highly. It is located a short distance from Divisadero and the Posada
Barrancas train stop. You can make it a stop from the train or from the
road. Maria offers a variety of rooms, an indoor pool (!) and superb views
into the canyon a short walk behind the hotel. The margaritas are pretty
good too - unless you have the misfortune to pass through (as we did)
during an election when the bar was closed! Mala suerte - bummer! |
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Divisadero resembles a
carnival atmosphere when the train arrives. Food vendors, native crafts,
souvenirs, and a great canyon view get crammed into the visitors' fifteen
minute stop. Then the train leaves and everyone settles down to wait for
the next arrival. |
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On the low road into
Bahuichivo, the road passes the Orivo ruins on the left about a kilimeter
before Cuiteco.
These are the remains of what once was a bustling camp for railroad
construction workers. There are only a few buildings remaining today, the
one pictured was a restaurant run by a Chinese couple. Unfortunately it
and most other structures were buldozed to make a baseball field. A
tragic loss of an important historic site. |
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Outside Cuiteco on the
low road, a bridge crosses a small stream. The foundations for the bridge
are concrete but notice the "roadbed" - it's railroad rails! There must
have been a surplus of rails because even the power poles use them. |
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We made a brief stop
in Cieneguita on the road to Tubares. Topping off the truck with gas was
simple - gas is siphoned from a drum into a pail and from the pail into
the truck's tank. |
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Descending to Urique
normally offers panoramic vistas. This day was cloudy and the road seemed
to disappear as it wound its way downward. Drive this road only if you
have sufficient back country driving experience. |
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In years past,
graduation from primary school was a major event. This diploma, from a museum
in Guerrero, was awarded in June of 1900 and signed by the governor of the
state of Chihuahua! Wrapped around the bottom of the diploma is the
braided hair from Pilar Gonzalez - the lucky student. |
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Rains cause havoc on
back-country roads. En route to Tubares, at least this bump was minor and
passable. Heavy rains can erode dirt roads and cause landslides - delays
can be measured in days. The road now sees much more traffic - a major
gold mine has opened up at El Sauzal. |
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For years the Jesuit
mission at Satevó showed a bare exterior of well-aged brick. Taken in
spring, 2007, visible restoration work was taking place. By spring 2009
all the brick was covered and the church interior was undergoing major
reconstruction. Compare this
view with the original shown in our Silver
Trail trip description. |
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Most of the towns in
the area have gazebos in their plaza or zocalo. This one, in
Cuauhtemoc,
is typically ornate. |
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If you are traveling
further north, stop on the south side of Nuevo Casas Grandes and visit
the Paquime archelogical site. It is very well maintained and does much
to illustrate the pre-historic culture of the area. Just south of
Paquime, the small town of Mata Ortiz has become famous for
its local pottery artists. Don't feel badly if you unexpectedly spend
the rest of your trip budget here on some irresistible treasure - you
won't be the first one to do so! And on the way to Mata Ortiz, stop by
the Hacienda San Diego. Originally one of Luis Terraza's many haciendas
from the days of the Mexican Revolution, it is now occupied by the
Acosta family and is slowly being restored. The history of the hacienda
illustrates many of the conditions that spawned the Revolution. The family
gladly offers tours for a small donation to the restoration effort. |
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