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The front of the Church in Cerocahui
today. |
The Oso is in a high mountain valley near
the pueblo of Cerocahui, a pristine region bordering on the most spectacular of
all Canyon vistas. Although frequently overlooked by large, fast-moving tourist
groups, Cerocahui typifies the true Copper Canyon. Beautiful mountain streams
flow peacefully past picturesque apple orchards and small ranches, dramatically
rugged mountains and cliffs oversee the valley, home to over 200 species of
birds, Indian burial sites, nature trails, waterfalls, the wily coyote and the
fast-moving roadrunner.
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Cerocahui's Church as it appeared in
1924, probably after a confirmation. |
Cerocahui is an ejido (government
established community cooperative) dedicated to forestry. Additional occupations
are ranching, farming, tourism, and service businesses such as grocery stores.
Mining once provided employment but the last local mine folded in 1963. However,
some residents continue to work in mines elsewhere and a few gain small incomes
hand-grinding ore to extract minuscule amounts of gold. Several exceedingly large
gold mines are planned for opening within the next year or two, although 3-4
hours from Cerocahui, these mines are expected to provide regional employment.
Monthly meetings of ejiditarios, family
heads who are government-recognized members of the ejido, control the town. Most
eiditario families have been here several generations; however, they make up a
small percentage of the actual population. There has been a large influx of new
residents during the last 20 years. Many of these new residents are members of
other ejidos that have exceedingly limited employment possibilities.
Unfortunately,
limited work and education opportunities cause many young people to leave the
area. Most of them go initially to Cuauhtemoc for education and to work in the
apple orchards, others go to Chihuahua and the copper mines at Nacozari, and
some gone to the United States, mostly the Southwest.
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This monument to
Padre Lara originally showed him with glasses. |
Outsiders first visited Cerocahui in 1679
when the Jesuit Padre Pecoro stopped briefly to report that the Indians were not
ready
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Cerocahui's Indian School
A boarding school for Tarahumara Children |
to accept his faith. On November
23, 1680, the Jesuit priest
Juan Maria Salvatierra arrived in Cerocahui. This enthusiastic Italian priest
began teaching Christianity as he started construction of the mission church. He
remained here 10 years before moving on to become a visiting priest in Sonora
and Sinaloa. Eventually he traveled to Baja
California with the famous Padre Kino. There he founded the Mission of Loreto in
1698. This was the start of the mission trail leading north into what is now
California, U.S.
The Jesuits continued their work in
Cerocahui until June 24, 1767 when political differences with the Spanish King
resulted in their recall. Orders to close the mission were sent out by
messengers from Mexico City--the Jesuits had but one month to leave the country;
however, remote missions such as Cerocahui were generally closed overnight.
We
have no more recorded history until 1939 when the Jesuits returned in the form
of the dynamic Padre Andres Lara, the man generally credited with the modern
founding of Cerocahui. A leather-tough man, the good Padre tolerated little
opposition and rode his mission packing a six-gun. Originally assigned to Churo,
Padre Lara came to Cerocahui when Churo residents opposed plans to reconstruct
their church. By 1940 Lara had begun work on the decrepit adobe church of Cerocahui. Reconstruction of this church replaced the adobe with stone and
continued until its consecration, March 12, 1955. The consecration of the Church
as opposed to dedication indicates the importance of the Cerocahui mission. (The
only other Church in the region to be consecrated is the original church on the
plaza in Creel.)
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The Church interior
in 1938, the statue of the Virgin Mary has been moved to a right side altar
and replaced with a statue of San Francisco Javier, the frescos below the
dome no longer exist. |
In 1941 the good Padre founded the
Tehuecado Santa Maria Guadalupe, a
Tarahumara Indian Boarding School for girls. The school burned in 1957 and was
reconstructed in 1963 and continues in operation today. The school has
approximately 75 girls boarding (2003) and another 180 day students. On November
28, 2003, a new dormitory was inaugurated with room for 80 girls. The School is operated by the order
of the Siervas del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus y de Los Pobres. An interesting
aside is that the tan-colored habits worn by these sisters are used only in the
Tarahumara mission and in Africa.
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The present day Church interior. |
Padre Lara constructed the first road to
Bahuichivo during the mid-50s, the tunnel is the most noticeable feature of that
road. He brought the first vehicle to the area, a 1958 Ford pickup he called his
Niña (little girl). Daniel Lugo Comacho presently owns that truck and maintains
it in drivable condition. During construction of the road, the Padre also
oversaw construction of the stone bridge connecting the road with the ranch
owned by Elodia Aguirre. This bridge may be seen from the front porch of the Oso
and is part of the Hotel property.
The Padre died in Guadalajara in 1976 and
his remains were taken to the religious cemetery in Sisoguichi. On March 11,
1997 his remains were transported to Cuiteco then carried to Cerocahui in a
procession, they presently rest in the walls of his beloved church.
In 1966 the public health center was
constructed. This center is staffed by local nurses and a non-resident doctor
who gives a year's service on graduation from medical school.
On October 26, 1961 President Lopez
Mateos inaugurated the Chihuahua al Pacifico train, providing the first real
public transportation to Cerocahui. In 1968 the Hotel Misión was opened. In 1990
the Hotel Paraiso del Oso opened; since then several small guesthouses and
restaurants have opened and tourism is becoming a major area employer. In May,
1995 the first long-distance telephone system began operation in Cerocahui, to
date only two lines serve the town with service available only from a small
caseta.. Electricity came to the area in June 2001 and is making a major change
in lifestyles.
The future of Cerocahui will probably see
a decrease in logging and a gradual shift to tourist-based occupations. This
shift should pick up momentum with the completion of a paved road through the
area sometime in the next 5-6 years. Paving of the road to San Rafael initiated
a change from rail transportation to truck and prompted the introduction of a
wider assortment of merchandise in local stores.
Challenges come with progress and with
growth. The biggest challenge faced by Cerocahui today is how to grow while
continuing to maintain the customs, culture and wildness all of which make it such a
unique destination.
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